Project Lockdown – Fuel Tanks and Battery Boxes

21 May, 2020 / James Wells / 1 Comment

So we’re back on with the class 31! The break/delay was brought on by work and home schooling!

The underframe on the Lima class 31 is basic, as we have seen, but this straightforward bit of work will transform it. Even if you leave it without finer detail, the reduced width and increased depth will make a huge difference.

It’s a basic Plastikard box, extended at either end. We have the battery box covers from when we prepared the underframe which will be attached later on.

The basic layout is here.

The fuel tanks and battery boxes.

The parts are made from Plastikard sheet, 40thou and 60thou. They can easily be cut using a knife and a set square/engineer’s square. If you’ve not worked in Plastikard before, this is a good and straightforward introduction to it – for other projects it opens up all sorts of possibilities, from detailing and modifications to full scratch building!

So, we will need the following –

Two each in 40thou –

9mm x 24mm
9mm x 18mm
9mm x 26mm
9mm x 5mm

One piece in 60thou –

22mm x 26mm

One piece in 60thou

18mm x 30mm

As shown here with the parts laid out.

The parts required – all are 40 thou but that marked with * needs to be 60 thou.

The 18mm x 30mm part will require notches cutting which at 4mm x 3mm at each corner. They are 3mm from the ends and 4mm deep, towards the centre.

And to help identify the locations of parts, the colour coded parts as they should appear once assembled.

The assembly but showing the colours corresponding to the individual parts.

The main box is the first thing we need, using the 22mm x 26mm piece as the base. Take one of the 9mm x 26mm pieces and fix the the outer end of the base, using an engineer’s square to ensure its perpendicular. Once happy leave briefly to begin setting before taking the other end and fixing in place in just the same way as the first. You should now have an interesting U shaped assembly in front of you.

Take the 9mm x 24mm pieces (mid-green on the diagram) and fit the either side of the U piece.

Once you’re happy, cut some thin strips of 40thou Plastikard and reinforce the joints inside the box and this should be the result.

The basic box, note the strips of Plastikard reinforcing the joints.

Leave to dry for a bit, have a drink and biscuit, s chocolate one if this is your first time doing anything like this.

The battery box covers should already be prepared so take the first one and fix in place on the outside of the box (shown mid-green on the diagram), line it up carefully. Once you’re happy, repeat on the other side.

Next you’ll need one of the 9mm x 18mm (orange) pieces, fix it on one end centrally, this means you’ll have 4mm either side of it (not measuring the battery box covers, just the Plastikard).

Here I’m going to change the order from that in the pictures as I think it’ll make it easier and more straightforward. So take the big slab of 60thou, the 18mm x 30mm (blue) piece. Glue this on place so it lines up with the orange end as per the diagram – use an engineer’s square to ensure it’s not skew whiff. By fitting this sooner, it makes fitting the end box simpler.

End pieces attached and battery box covers fixed in place.

So next add the two 9mm x 5mm pieces, on top of the ‘blue’ piece and the end, checking for squareness. Then just the remaining end piece needs to be added, all being well it should fit nicely.

The structurally complete fuel tank and battery box assembly.

The remaining joints should be reinforced with strips of Plastikard as before once you’re happy.

Now leave it do properly set/dry, and next time we’ll be fitting to the underframe.

The Quietly Progressive Railway Modeller

20 May, 2020 / James Wells / 3 Comments

Railway Modeller, March 1995

There was quite an exchange on a Facebook modelling group today – magazines came.

I said I felt that Railway Modeller should be there to inspire and guide those who wish to try new things (after suggesting a loco body kit on am RTR chassis could be followed up with a similar attempt but showing readers how to move on and construct their own chassis). Incidentally, the response from someone that “not everyone wants to build their own chassis” and therefore it shouldn’t be covered? Well I disagree, even if you never do so, an article could have techniques you could find useful elsewhere in your modelling.

Then I remembered this article from the March 1995 issue of Railway Modeller. Fitting a Lima model with an all wheel drive mechanism for an Athern model and directional lighting, twenty five years ago! This was quite some, especially of you compare what else was written on diesel mechanisms, the only thing comparable was fitting Dyna-Drive, which was very expensive. Plus we had Ultrascale wheels in the mix too. I’ve done the same conversion on other classes. As has Jim Smith-Wright, see his site for more of his modelling.

Railway Modeller has been there for much of our hobby’s development, it’s featured all sorts of niche scales and standards, some of the very best layouts our hobby has seen. But never has Railway Modeller been over the top but quietly progressive.

The latest issue has an Irish narrow gauge layout in 7mm scale, complete with the correct gauge of track at 21mm. Beautifully niche and not the slightest bit mainstream.

But…

This sort of modelling can easily inspire people regardless of what they’re modelling.

Project Lockdown – Advanced Underframe

4 May, 20204 May, 2020 / James Wells / 1 Comment

The developing loco – now the underframe is beginning to take shape.

This is probably best described as ‘optional’ I think – I think it makes a big difference but if you’re not sure, it’ll still look ok.

The buffer beams on the Lima models which depict locos with their valances removed, are too wide. It’s only by a little, but enough to make a difference – once you’ve rectified this, it becomes obvious!

So we begin be making replacement pieces for the side framing. This is what we see of the body’s structure, much like in class 47s and 56s. Originally the class 31 had valances around their buffer beams to hide this but as time went on most locos had them removed – the odd example lasted into the nineties though carrying the valances and the bodyside band!

Marking out the side framing.

We’ll be removing the original moulded framing so we’ll need replacements – this is easy! Using the non-powered end of the chassis, take 20 thou Plastikard and, as in the photo above, scribe the outline of the existing part. Once scribed, remove and cut with a knife and straight edge. I’d make five or six so you’ve got spares as soon making more will be difficult.

Removing the side framing – this is the non-powered end.

We’re back in destruction mode again!

Remove the side of the framing so the cut on the buffer beam is level with the inside face of part to be removed. A brand new blade for each one too is wise. File the chassis flat along the long edge and clean up the rear of buffer beam but not the side of the buffer beam yet – wait until the new framing is in place and set to allow a nice, smooth joint to be made.

Side framing fitted and braced with pieces of 40 thou Plastikard.

Fit the frames in place, at the same angle as the originals, but so their outer surface is flush with the edge of the buffer beam. Once you’re happy with the position, run plenty of solvent round the inside edges. You need to prepare some strips if 40 thou Plastikard, about 2mm or 3mm wide and reinforce the joints with these, just as in the photo.

Unfortunately the powered end is a little trickier…

Attacking the powered end.

The frame is removed as before but you’ll need to cut through the support for the of the motor bogie – though on the Hornby Railroad model, this isn’t needed as the revised motor bogie has a revised pivot arrangement which does use the same outer guides.

Do these one side at a time, attaching the new frame and letting the joint harden for a time before doing the other side. With these sides removed, the chassis structure is severely weakened so doing them in turn helps us retain the structure with risk of snapping the end off!

The powered end with both sides of the framing in place and the joints reinforced.

The joints need to be reinforced as before, and then you can leave the chassis to dry thoroughly.

Time for a drink and a biscuit.

So now it’s dry, file the frame and buffer beam ends gently to make a good, smooth join between them.

You’ll notice there’s a rib along the frame on the side below the cabs. I’ve used 10 thou strip, 1mm/40 thou wide. If you don’t have strip, just cut it from a sheet.

31271 at Butterley again – the photo shows the rib on the side of the frame below the cab quite clearly.

Use the photo as a guide for the positioning – the end should be cut to a 45° angle. You can easily bend the strip to achieve the angle where it turns towards the cab door. Solvent will not only make the join but soften the bend which will then harden and be nice and strong. Once set, the edges of the frames can be tidied up lightly with a file/emery board.